Strange Medieval Fashion: The Weirdest Trends of the Middle Ages


From exaggerated codpieces to lavish surcot overdresses, medieval fashion was all about spectacle and status. These trends were not just about clothing but also a reflection of wealth and social standing. Let’s discover the fascinating world of medieval attire.

Pointy Shoes

Pointy Shoes

In the Middle Ages, pointy shoes were a clear indicator of wealth and status. Longer toes signify higher social standing. These ultra-pointy shoes, known as Crakows which originated in Kraków, Poland, quickly became a coveted fashion trend among the elite.

Men’s shoes were particularly designed to be more pointed than women are to showcase extravagance and fashion-forward thinking. Men wearing Crakows means a bold statement. The longer the toe of your shoe, the wealthier and more influential you appeared. This marked a significant departure from the traditional softer shoe styles that were common earlier.

Crakows, often adorned with luxurious plumage accents, became essential for ensuring you were noticed in high society. The trend wasn’t about comfort but about making a statement. These shoes were often so long that they needed to be reinforced with whalebone or other stiff materials to maintain their shape.

Pointy shoes were more than just a fashion trend; they were a status symbol, a way to distinguish yourself in a world where social standing meant everything.

Exaggerated Codpieces

Exaggerated codpieces highlighted the male groin area. These padded garments, popular in the Renaissance, symbolized virility and social standing. Often comically large, they were more than just a fashion statement. Wealthy men decorated their codpieces with elaborate designs, jewels, and embroidery. The more elaborate the codpiece, the higher the perceived status. Codpieces were prominent in both daily and formal clothing of the era.

Here’s why exaggerated codpieces were popular:

  • Symbol of Virility: A large codpiece was a direct, albeit exaggerated, representation of male virility.
  • Social Status: The wealthy used codpieces to display their economic power, often embellishing them with precious stones.
  • Fashion Trend: Exaggerated codpieces became notable, evolving in size and decoration over time.

Surcot Overdresses

Surcot Overdresses

Surcot overdresses were crafted from luxurious fabrics like silk and velvet.  These garments featured unique sleeve designs, ranging from wide and flowing to tight and fitted.

Wearing a surcot overdress signaled wealth and refined taste, showcasing intricate patterns and lavish decorations.

Luxurious Fabric Choices

Medieval nobility showcased their wealth and status by adorning surcot overdresses with luxurious fabrics such as silk, velvet, and brocade. These rich materials were essential in distinguishing the upper class from the common folk. Surcot overdresses served as a canvas for displaying wealth through vibrant colors and intricate patterns.

To fully appreciate the grandeur of these garments, consider the following points:

  • Fabric Choices: Silk, velvet, and brocade were highly prized, requiring significant expenditure and meticulous craftsmanship.
  • Color Significance: Deep reds, royal blues, and rich greens were favored, as the dyes needed to achieve these hues were expensive and labor-intensive.
  • Pattern Complexity: Intricate patterns, often featuring floral or geometric designs, showcased the weaver’s skill and the wearer’s wealth.

Meanwhile, the lower classes wore simpler short tunics. This disparity in clothing choices underscored social hierarchies, much like modern Privacy Policies highlight differences in data handling practices among various services.

Unique Sleeve Designs

Sleeves were often oversized, puffed, and adorned with elaborate decorations, to indicate wealth and social standing.

Imagine sleeves so huge they needed to be stuffed with material like moss to keep their shape and give them a dramatic, inflated look. These exaggerated designs were conversation starters and highlighted the wearer’s high status. In medieval times, the more extravagant your sleeves, the more prestigious you appeared.

Henin Headdresses

Henin Headdresses

Henin headdresses are tall, cone-shaped hats that became a prominent trend among wealthy women in the Middle Ages. Introduced to Europe, possibly from the East, these extravagant accessories quickly symbolized fashion and social status among the elite. Despite their controversial nature, henins captivated the imagination and wardrobes of noblewomen.

  • Status Symbol: Wearing a henin indicates one’s wealth and social standing. The taller and more elaborate the henin, the higher the status it conferred.
  • Fashion Statement: Much like modern fashion trends, henins were the must-have item of their time. Their unique and ostentatious design made them the perfect way to stand out in a crowd.
  • Cultural Influence: The introduction of the henin brought an exotic flair to European fashion, making it highly desirable among those who wanted to appear worldly and sophisticated.

However, not everyone was a fan. Christian leaders criticized henin headdresses for their excessive display of wealth, viewing them as a moral threat. Despite this, the allure of these towering hats endured, cementing their place in medieval fashion history.

Parti-Colored Garments

Parti-colored garments, characterized by their split design in contrasting colors, were a bold fashion statement during the period. These vibrant, expensive dyes showcased one’s social standing and unique style.

Bold Color Combinations

Parti-colored garments featuring bold color combinations like red and blue or green and yellow were a striking fashion statement among the elite. By sewing together different colored fabrics, tailors created garments that stood out in any crowd.

Consider these bold combinations:

  1.   Red and Blue: This pairing symbolizes power and prestige. Red was often associated with nobility, while blue denoted trust and loyalty.
  2.   Green and Yellow: This vibrant mix was cheerful and eye-catching, perfect for showcasing wealth and status.
  3.   Black and White: A classic contrast that conveyed sophistication and elegance, often favored by the upper class.

These combinations weren’t chosen randomly because they were carefully selected to make a statement. The fabrics used were typically expensive and luxurious. By wearing such striking outfits, the elite distinguished themselves from the common folk, who couldn’t afford such extravagance.

Social Status Indicator

The luxurious fabrics and bold color combinations signaled that the wearer could afford such extravagant attire.

For the lower social classes, wearing such colorful and elaborate clothing was often restricted. The stark contrast in clothing options between classes reinforced the existing social hierarchy. If you were part of the nobility, your attire was a powerful visual statement of your position and influence.

Here’s an overview:

Social Class Clothing Characteristics
Nobility Luxurious, bold, multi-colored garments
Upper Class Expensive fabrics, eye-catching designs
Lower Class Simple, muted, often single-colored attire
Restricted Classes Limited to plain, unadorned clothing


Padded Doublets


Padded doublets, featuring stuffed chests and arms, were designed to give men a more muscular and imposing appearance during the Middle Ages. These garments weren’t merely about style but were also a declaration of strength and masculinity. The padding in these doublets was often crafted from materials like wool, linen, or even moss, which helped emphasize the chest and arms, creating a robust silhouette.

The popularity of padded doublets can be attributed to several factors:

  1.   Status Symbol: Wearing a padded doublet signified wealth and power. The more elaborate the padding, the more affluent and influential the wearer appeared.
  2.   Fashion Trend: The era’s fashion favored dramatic shapes and sizes. Padded doublets complemented the exaggerated styles that were prevalent.
  3.   Masculine Ideal: When physical strength was highly valued, these doublets allowed men to project an image of a strong, muscular physique, regardless of their natural build.

Long-Toed Shoes

Poulaines shoes have pointed toes extending several inches beyond the foot. It captured medieval society’s imagination for several reasons:

  1. Symbol of Wealth and Status: The length of the toe indicated social standing, with nobles wearing longer poulaines to flaunt their high status.
  2. Luxurious Materials: Crafted from fine materials like leather and silk, poulaines showcased the wearer’s wealth.
  3. Fashion Statement: Like modern fashion trends, which prioritize appearance over practicality, poulaines reflected the era’s love for opulence and excess.

Though uncomfortable, these shoes were a universal symbol of medieval extravagance. To fit in with the elite, owning a pair was essential.

Cotehardie Fashion

The cotehardie became the epitome of fashion for both men and women. This tight-fitting garment featured a high waistline, tight sleeves, and a long, fitted bodice that emphasized the body’s natural shape. The cotehardie’s revealing nature was considered quite scandalous at the time, showcasing a dramatic shift towards more form-fitting and daring clothing styles in the late Middle Ages.

Cotehardies were often made from luxurious fabrics like silk and velvet, highlighting the wearer’s physique as well as their wealth and social status.

Both men and women embraced the cotehardie, with some variations in style. Women’s cotehardies typically featured longer skirts, while men’s versions were shorter, allowing for greater flexibility. Despite these differences, the fundamental design remained the same: a celebration of the human form and a bold statement in medieval fashion.

Thus, in the late 14th century, the cotehardie was the garment of choice for those looking to make a fashionable impression.


Medieval fashion was a striking blend of extravagance and symbolism, reflecting the time’s social hierarchies and cultural values. These fashion choices reveal a fascinating world where clothing was not just about practicality but a vivid expression of identity and power.  Not unlike today!

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